Bengal has a rich handloom story that’s weaving its popularity and class throughout the world. One of the biggest hubs of these handloom treasures is undoubtedly the town of Fulia in the Naida district of the State. The iconic Fulia saree has carved its niche in the annals of history, offering the highest quality and intricate designs as compared to the more elaborate Jamdani style, although with a softer touch and feel.
The weaving history of the town is inextricably linked to the settlement of skilled refugees who came down here after India’s Partition. Let us learn more about its fascinating story below.
Fulia: Birthing Handloom Dreams One Step At a Time
The famous Fulia saree is an iconic legacy of West Bengal. The town of Phulia or Fulia, is famous for its unique Tangail sarees. They are quite similar to Jamdani although they have a softer feel and texture. The weaving tradition here has been massively influenced by the influx of refugees from East Pakistan (modern-day Bangladesh) who settled here after the Partition. Here are some key aspects about Fulia that you should know more about.
- Fulia has its own Tangail weave that is characterised by the usage of a cotton weft and silk warp. The sarees have their own signature physical finish which lends a unique feel and appearance.
- Another milestone in the Fulia handloom industry was the establishment of cooperative societies in the 1970s. It played a crucial role in the organisation and growth of the town’s handloom industry.
- A major chunk of the town’s handloom production was exported at one time, thereby earning ample global recognition.
- While the industry faced numerous challenges after a period, there are still ongoing initiatives to promote and revive West Bengal’s handloom traditions through tourism initiatives and support programs for local artisans.
- Weavers in Fulia are steadily adapting to contemporary trends, integrating new designs and colours to cater to modern preferences, while maintaining the handloom weaving principles simultaneously.
- Fulia’s Basak weavers traditionally produced these sarees with a special finish that is free from the Jorebhanga or the reed mark. It ensures a special appearance and the Tangail weave may feel similar to the Bengal Jamdani saree. However, the former has weaving with two plain picks that are inserted after each additional weft.
Fulia’s Rich Legacy- A Thousand Stories Waiting to Be Told
The Fulia Tangail sarees were similar to the Dhakai Jamdani in terms of technique, although with a softer feel and motifs spaced out evenly. They were woven both in cotton and silk. In fact, Fulia’s story is also linked to the town of Shantipur which also played a role in birthing the handloom industry in West Bengal. While the latter was a handloom weaving hub with more than 500 years of history, Fulia developed only after the Partition of the country. Yet, their trajectories are closely linked together. There was a creative resurgence in the town of Fulia once the Basak weavers migrated here from the Tangail Subdivision of Mymensingh District in East Pakistan. They originally lived in the surrounding twenty two villages of the town of Tangail.
Fulia now has the same repute as Shantipur. The weavers here created their own style of Dhakai, also known as Tangail Jamdani, and a combination of Shantipur and Fulia styles is also called the Fulia Tangail. It has become hugely popular worldwide. Think of vibrant colours with intricate and large designs that are woven with double Jacquard. This is what characterises the Fulia Tangail style to perfection. Tussar silk and mulberry are also used to weave these sarees, aside from cotton.
Acquire a Priceless Fulia Handloom Saree
Now that you’ve got an idea of the timeless journey of Fulia sarees, it’s time to acquire one for your wardrobe. Nothing denotes simplistic elegance (if we can call it that) better than these elegant sarees. The hand-woven textures combine with a signature soft feeling to create magic whenever you’ll wear the saree to any special event or even for a relaxed occasion. Adding these sarees to your wardrobe is a must, considering how they symbolise Bengal’s chequered legacy of handloom weaving. The quaint town of Fulia has been at the epicentre of efforts to take the state’s handloom and textile legacy ahead.
By acquiring one of these beauties, you’ll do your bit for these efforts, one step at a time. Here’s to dazzling in a beautiful Fulia saree. And if you’re looking to venture to the town to explore its weaving centres first-hand, it’s really easy to reach from Kolkata by road (approximately 80 kilometres away) or railway networks. Here’s wishing for the continued growth and resurgence of these sarees worldwide, since they deserve global acclaim for their finish and quality.