Bengal has a rich weaving heritage of its own, something that’s pretty visible through the revival and growth of authentic handwoven sarees and handloom marvels. Cotton handwoven Jamdani is one of these examples of the very soul of Bengal’s rich history and cultural legacy of weaving. Coming to cotton handwoven Jamdani in more detail, it is a highly labor-intensive and skilled process, where there are directly intricate motifs woven into the fine cotton material with the technique that has been passed down over generations (discontinuous weft).
The craft of Jamdani itself flourished over centuries, reaching its peak during the rule of the Mughals, while facing extinction during the rule of the British. Thereafter, it was revived some time after independence, with an attempt to restore and encourage Indian handlooms. In Bengal, it has kept several artisan communities alive, with the art majorly being a family tradition of sorts. Many weavers from Dhaka in undivided Bengal came to West Bengal after Partition, setting up in places like Shantipur and Phulia. They brought their techniques, looms, memories, and traditions, ensuring that it continued in Bengal.
Why Cotton Handwoven Jamdani Is Special?
The uniqueness and special touch of cotton handwoven Jamdani lies in the manual and labor-intensive production process. It may take several weeks to months to finish a single saree, depending on the design type and complexity. Contemporary Jamdani designs are usually inspired by geometrical patterns, floral textures, and Nature. The process beings with the handloom being prepared, making sure that the ideally tensioned fine cotton warp or vertical threads are used.
Then the discontinuous weft technique happens, considered one of the world’s most advanced and skilled methods of weaving. At the same time, there is manual motif inlaying, i.e. where supplementary weft threads are interlaced into the warp. The hand-inlaid and detailed procedure is slow and artisans usually weave just a quarter to an inch of fabric in one day. Mostly two weavers prefer working side-by-side to synchronize the pattern creation, which is an intricate affair, necessitating the utmost focus and skill. After weaving, the saree is starched, washed, and neatly ironed to boost the texture and appearance, thereby creating what the world knows as the floating motifs.
How Do You Find Authentic Cotton Handwoven Jamdani Sarees?
How do you identify 100% genuine and authentic cotton handwoven Jamdani sarees? Here is a quick guide that may help.
- Always look for irregularities in weaving patterns. Authentic sarees will never have evenly crafted patterns.
- Look for authentic sarees that are lightweight, airy, and super-soft. The fabric should drape smoothly, while feeling more comfortable on the skin.
- Geometric and floral patterns, coupled with intricate borders are special aspects of the weave in this case. The original Jamdani will have elaborate designs across the whole body.
- Don’t be in a hurry to close a good deal at a low price; the price should reflect the painstaking laborious process involved in making the saree.
- Check the weave and the handloom mark carefully before finalizing your purchase.
- If the motifs seem to be embroidered or printed, then it’s not a genuine Jamdani saree at all.
Preserve Sustainable Handloom Sarees:
If you are a saree connoisseur, you should definitely consider buying authentic cotton handwoven Jamdani sarees. This will give an impetus to the artisans, weavers, and traditional communities who have kept these skills and techniques alive for generations. It also encourages slow and sustainable fashion, with every saree being made-to-order, and taking a long time for completion. It’s as exclusive as it gets, and buying these sarees from responsible brands that directly work with weavers is always a good bet. It will help you get fairer prices from the get-go. You can consider leading names offering these marvels and other fabulous Indian handlooms, such as Tamal Boutique from Kolkata.
This is one brand that ethically sources its sarees and collaborates with traditional artisans and weaving communities. You will get timely and transparent updates on the creation of the sarees (may vary as you know, since it’s such a labor-intensive process), along with prompt support. So, what are you waiting for? It’s time to do your bit for the continued revival and progress of these beautiful Indian handloom sarees.